Published June 5, 2023, 11:20 p.m. by Jerald Waisoki
Food stylist Susan Spungen reviews iconic food scenes from films like 'Matilda,' 'The Princess Diaries,' 'Inglourious Basterds,' 'Julie & Julia,' and more. Susan explains all the things we never think about when watching food scenes in movies, like how the food stays fresh between takes and how often the actors have to actually eat the food.
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Food Stylist Reviews Food Scenes from Movies | Vanity Fair
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i was the food stylist on julian julius
i was the
hand double for meryl streep in this
film so in the black and white
segments those are actually my hands i
had on
meryl streep's watch and her shirt and
that's me
sewing up the duck hey vanity fair i'm
susan spungan
today i'll be reviewing food styling in
tv and film
[Music]
this next clip is from the princess
diaries
in any situation ice cream is definitely
the hardest thing to shoot
whether or not this is real ice cream or
sorbet
is is an open question um because
they're eating
you would have to make something that
looks like
sorbet but doesn't melt you also could
just keep resetting the scene
but it would be ideal to have something
that that doesn't melt because
by the time you started shooting it
could be melting
i thought it was a cruel she didn't
realize it was frozen
if it was me i would do everything in my
power to create something that
looked like what they wanted it to look
like but also
could be edible for the actors and you
know it can't be like
crisco which is a common way to make
fake ice cream because they're eating it
it's very possible it's actual sorbet
because i did see a little bit of melt
around the edge in the bowl
acting like monkeys
this scene is from matilda
[Music]
this cake really had to have a lot of
screen presence
smells chocolaty
and one way that they did that was just
by making it
huge it's a really really big cake
i don't want any thank you it looks to
me like it was just made in giant
wedding cake pans and also they're using
camera angles to make it look
even bigger and scary actually
eat it it's hard to make something like
chocolate
look unappealing or unappetizing part of
what's
helping that is that you can see that
the actor doesn't want to eat it but
they've also tried to make the cake
just look um kind of just really messy
and sloppy and then the cook is
wiping her nose so it just seems kind of
disgusting
and very like kind of sloppily made when
you see an actor
on screen eating or seeming to eat a lot
you'll know that they cut away a lot and
there are plenty of opportunities for
the actor to spit out the food which is
often what they have to do
i can't look usually you want the actors
to
eat as little as possible unless they
want to eat it
this next film is eat pray love
working on eat pray love was definitely
an adventure
we did not have a set kitchen
and we were really shooting on location
in rome and if you've ever been to rome
you know the streets are small and only
a couple of trucks were allowed to get
near the set
and a food truck was not one of them in
this case
the pasta would have been pretty warm
because the doors that you see
behind her that's where the kitchen was
and i was right inside and so i would
have tried to plate this
as freshly as possible for this scene i
don't believe that they specified the
kind of pasta
and i just wanted something simple and
iconic because this scene was all about
her deciding to give in to her
impulses and just live life but i didn't
really
understand how important this scene was
going to be until i saw
the final edit and i think we did it
with one plate of pasta
and then they said okay we're done we're
rapper moving on to the next location
company move they say so you
clean up and you throw everything away
and they're like wait a minute wait a
minute
we need to shoot um an insert it says
was the parmesan cheese falling
on the pasta as much as i hated taking
it out of the trash i took it out of the
trash
i replated it and we did the parmesan
cheese falling on the pasta
but don't worry i didn't feed julia
robert's pasta that had been in the
trash
this is sex in the city
the truth is you wouldn't prep any
differently for this scene as you would
for
sushi that was sitting on a table it
looks like it's real sushi
on a real body she probably also had
certain
modesty garments on underneath the sushi
more likely than not the prop team
ordered sushi from a restaurant
and they probably wouldn't have brought
a sushi chef on set because it's pretty
easy
thing to source they probably had trays
and trays of it in a refrigerator
because it might have taken multiple
takes to get the shots that they needed
[Music]
40 minutes later sushi samantha
still no smith if they have to eat what
do they want to eat
that becomes almost the most important
part of a scene like this
i got wasabi in places where one should
never get wasabi this next scene
is from julie and julia
you may think that boning a duck is an
impossible feat
i was the food stylist on julian julius
don't be afraid
no fear julia we had a sort of
makeshift kitchen um right on the stage
it was actually a little bit
difficult because we couldn't make any
noise while the cameras were rolling
down the back of the bird
all the way from the neck to expose the
backbone
is it hard to bone a duck well it isn't
the easiest thing in the world
disgusting oh maybe the eggs aren't
fresh julie says the eggs have to be
fresh they are
fresh if you watch the film closely
you'll realize that amy adams is
actually doing
most of the cooking i would teach her
some basic knife skills
chopping and peeling onions and cracking
eggs
just to kind of get her more comfortable
in the kitchen we had live lobsters
because there was a scene where she had
to actually pick up live lobsters
and yes they were real live lobsters
look at that julia
it looks just like yours i was the hand
double for meryl streep in this film so
in the black and white
segments those are actually my hands i
had on
meryl streep's watch and her shirt and
that's me sewing up the duck in the wide
shots
merrill is doing a few things but you
don't see the more
intricate parts and then i was trusting
the pulley
roti and it fell on the floor
you always have to have a lot of backups
for
resetting i think we had eight of those
actual finished ducks for the dinner
party i mean it's not
like a super expensive item believe it
or not that would affect how many you
get
if it's something that's kind of cheap
you might just get 10
just to have them but if it becomes
expensive i mean you do always have a
budget that you're working with so you
don't want to be wasting money
i have to bone a whole duck when at some
point
this next scene is from emily in paris
ugh
this steak isn't cooked at all um excuse
me pardon monsieur
in this scene we are to believe
that emily has received a steak that is
very rare but you never see the steak
you barely see the food
so it's it's totally the actor's
reactions and the dialogue that is um
giving
context to the food and we're just kind
of buying it
is there a problem no no
i love it everything is perfect you
haven't touched it
the fact that there's no real close-up
of the food in the scene
tells you that they're not really so
concerned about the food you know i'd be
happy to burn it for you but promise me
you'll try it first
yeah try his meat emily it's much more
about the dialogue and the characters
and even the humor of the scene
nothing is real i mean the way that this
chef it comes out of a small little
bistro kitchen
perfectly clean and his sleeves are
rolled up
uh on his biceps i mean it's just it's
definitely not real it's all there to
serve the story and it's
it's not about the food see i knew you'd
like it if you give it a chance
next up eat drink man woman
this is probably one of the best cooking
scenes ever shot you see so much
real real food here this is an expert
chef it's the very beginning of the film
so it's the introduction
to the character and the story and this
this is how it all starts and you are
immediately just
drawn into the rhythmic cooking that's
going on
there are so many different actions in
the scene and
any action is more difficult to shoot
because you only get
one chance and then if you didn't get it
you have to just reset and do it again
a scene like this would have taken a
long time to shoot
it would all be charted out on a
shooting schedule
so the person doing the food would know
what to have prepared and when
all of those kind of things would kind
of dictate how you would source your
ingredients
and how to basically prep your job as
the food style is to be ready
you never want to keep this very huge
and expensive crew
waiting this next scene is from
inglorious bastards
this scene is very interesting it's part
of this
long uncomfortable conversation between
these two characters
and they go to the trouble of showing
you
how beautiful and delicious this apple
strudel is
the whole point of kind of building the
strudel up was to
show how menacing a character
he is because in the end he thinks
nothing
of putting out his cigarette on the
strudel
this is a really good example of food
sort of playing a character
in a scene because you know it was there
to really tell you something it was no
accident that you saw these loving
close-ups of the strudel and the cream
just so they could show you a close-up
of the cigarette at the end
this next scene is from marie antoinette
the asparagus tower is very central
visually in the scene and in the 18th
century
food was both of decoration and
something to eat
it just sort of really helps set the
scene and it sort of adds to like the
absurdity
of what we think of as marie antoinette
let them eat cake the idea is to
sort of find this sweet spot between
historical
correctness and theatricality to help
tell the story and paint a picture
everything is just kind of pretty and
flouncy
and ruffly and and so are the clothes so
it's all of a piece
this next scene is from the grand
budapest hotel
this was also when i met agatha from
what i understand about the way
wes anderson works there's sort of
elements of reality and fantasy kind of
interwoven together and i think these
pastries are kind of a perfect example
of that when trying to
figure out what exactly a pastry like
this might look like in the film most
likely you might start with sketches
they would have auditioned different
versions of the pastry since it's so
important it's really like almost like a
character
in these scenes not only was agatha
immensely skilled with a palette knife
and a buttercream flourish
she was also very brave in a case like
this where the pastries are just set
dressing
i would do whatever i had to do to make
these
indestructible and last as long as
possible
although they're spoiled holder mendel's
is the best
this next scene is from crazy rich
asians
forget about these girls camp out here
and order room service
it's highly likely that these two shots
were shot
at different times if there's no reason
to have the actors
in the room with this probably smelly
fish
why would you i would think even for the
film crew they would have tried to keep
the smells to a minimum
you wouldn't really want like smelly
rotten fish in the room with the crew
this
it definitely looks like a real fish in
the scene to me the guts and blood
are probably fake but you never know it
could be anything it could be
paper towel soaked in fake blood this is
sometimes where the
special effects department would
actually get involved usually they
can create like fake growth stuff that
isn't as gross as it looks
next up is willy wonka and the chocolate
factory
hurry up pilot this way grandpa
each of those props that you see all of
the
supposed candy and the garden and
they're
going crazy over it if you look at it it
really it just looks like plastic and
vinyl
and it more creates this fantasy world
and if you
look closely at what they're doing
they've just opened up one of these
plastic mushrooms and put something
inside and even the chocolate waterfall
doesn't really look like chocolate
it just looks like brown water you've
ruined your watershed wonka
it's polluted it's chocolate none of it
really looks like
food or really like anything but you
kind of buy it
and again the actors reactions are
having a big effect on how
you interpret the scene next up is the
founder
speed that's the name of the game the
first stop for
every mcdonald's hamburger is the grill
i feel like the scene is very successful
because i really did feel like i was
in that kitchen back in the first
mcdonald's
because it really showed you a lot of
detail behind the scenes
burger crossing you see hamburgers that
were
clearly made by hand that is probably
how they were made
in the beginning before they became a
huge conglomerate
that lends a real air of reality to the
scene
because if they showed burgers the way
they look now at mcdonald's these sort
of perfect
circles i would have a harder time
believing that that it was
real like to me just the shape of the
burgers
really is the one thing here that tells
me that oh wow this is like the first
mcdonald's
next time you see a plate of food in a
movie think about
all that went into it and remember that
nothing is
accidental when you see it on the screen
thanks so much for
watching and thanks for having me vanity
fair
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