How to Make a Duffle Bag - DIY

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our original how to make a duffel bag

video had a small measurement mistake

this new video has that issue resolved

we hope you enjoy it

purchase a duffel bag kit from sailrite

and watch this video to complete it

versatile an attractive duffel bag that

you will love this is a great kit for a

new sower and owner of the sailrite

ultrafeed sewing machine you will put

into practice and learn many of the

skills that are typically required for

upholstery in canvas applications skills

like patterning using double-sided tape

to aid in sewing creating hymns sewing

pleats in foam installing zippers

working with webbing sewing box in

90-degree corners and much more the bag

includes a reinforced pleated foam

bottom a number-10 bisland zipper at the

top with swivel hooks on the inside to

hook keys and other objects to a

zippered side pocket with swivel hook

and a dual pocket compartment also on

the end of the bag is another pocket

2-inch polyurethane webbing handles and

a two-inch polyurethane strap with

swivel hooks make this duffle bag

yourself you'll learn a lot and you'll

also be left with a great duffle bag you

can purchase the duffel bag kit at

sailrite now let's get started and show

you how to make it the material provided

in the duffel bag kit does not have a

straight cut edge so we'll use a

straight edge and strike a line there to

create a straight edge along the cut

edge of the fabric now we begin

patterning we'll use this illustration

to pattern the fabric for all of the

pieces that need to be cut out for the

duffel bag we'll be marking the top

notch 9 fabric with a chalk pencil

cartridge set that's available from

sailrite

here we're taking measurements following

that pattern illustration that we showed

earlier you can use a clear acrylic

ruler to measure the fabric and mark the

fabric

that's what we're doing here if you do

not have that simply use a tape measure

and a straightedge the beauty of using a

chalk pencil is that the marks can

easily be removed with a wet rag it is

wise to label each one of the pattern

sections with what they will be used for

like body end pieces pockets and so

forth again here is that illustration so

that you can label each one of your

patterned pieces the sailrite recommends

using a hot knife to cut the top notch 9

fabric to size this seals the edge of

the fabric and keeps it from unraveling

here we're using the sailrite edge

hotknife package and we are using a

metal ruler on the underside to prevent

damage to the table top below all of the

pattern pieces are now cut out we're

ready to construct the duffel bag the

sarai devil bag kit includes a zippered

side pocket this pocket includes a hook

in which you can attach keys or other

objects and a dual pocket compartment we

are now working with the 2 side pocket

patterns along the long side folded

directly in half increase it well on the

inside edge of the 11 and 3/4 inch side

placed double-sided tape

this is seamstick basting tape for

canvas that's included in the kit

peeling off the transfer paper reveals

the glue now baste it in half so that

it's secured well using the sailrite

canvas patterning ruler we can be

assured that the double-sided tape will

hold well apply another run of the

seamstick basting tape along the second

side pocket and baste it along the 11

and 3/4 inch side as well but here a

half inch hem is created along that edge

it is not folded in half bill carefully

folds the material back 1/2 inch and

base it there so one end pocket is

folded in half as seen here and basted

and the other one has a 1/2 inch hem

along the 11 and 3/4 inch side on the

side pocket

that has the half-inch hymn measure up

from the bottom edge seven and a half

inches in place a few marks then strike

a line from mark to mark at that

location now this side pocket will have

a zipper so along that line that we just

struck down we're going to cut the

fabric here we're using the rotary

cutter in a cutting mat on the bottom

side you could simply use scissors the

double-sided tape should be applied to

both edges that were just cut on the

hemmed side of the smaller one and on

the bottom piece doesn't matter which

side since no side has a hem yet on the

panel that we just cut off we'll peel

off the transfer paper and on that edge

we will create a three-eighths inch hem

the finish size after the hems are

created of this strip should be one in

five eighths inch by 11 and 3/4 inch now

the opposite piece peel off the transfer

paper and create a half inch hem there

double-sided tape sticks well but using

this Eric chemist patterning ruler or

something similar in applying pressure

to the top of the double sided tape

makes it stick very well we highly

recommend using the sailrite canvas

patterning ruler we're a heavy object to

crease well the fabric and to apply the

basting tape well we'll cut the

number-10 Mizan zipper that's included

in the kit to size slightly bigger than

the size of the pocket we are cutting it

with scissors to approximately 12 and

1/2 inches in length the double-sided

tape should be placed on the flange of

the zipper as far away from the teeth as

possible that means the edge of the

double-sided tape should be basically

flush with the edge of the flange of the

zipper we placed it on both sides peeled

off the transfer paper and now we'll

base the bottom portion of the pocket

with a 1/2 inch hem facing the flange

down that folded him edge is

approximately 1/4 inch away from the

zippers teeth now for the smaller

section that we cut away we place it

also on the opposite side the hem side

facing down the 3/8 inch him is on top

of the zippers flange

the half-inch is above it when basting

be sure that the edges are lined up with

the fabric that's is basted on

underneath we've hidden the double sided

tape left the zipper exposed for a

gorgeous-looking duffel bag zipper to

ensure that everything sticks well use a

heavy object we're using the sailrite

canvas patterning ruler to do that the

folded portion of the side pocket will

be basted here when it comes time to

apply this assembly to the duffel bag so

your pocket will have a two pocket

compartment duffel bag kits may come

with hem Bob's if they do one is used

for the upper thread here and the other

is used in the bobbin area below let's

set that folded portion aside and take

the zipper portion to the sewing machine

and sew the zipper in place we start

here at the edge of the fabric and did

some reversing we're sewing a straight

stitch with about a five to six

millimeter stitch length the stitch is

placed 3/8 inch away from the zippers

teeth when we reach the end we do some

more of reversing then we'll sew the

opposite side of the zippers flange

again the stitch is about 3/8 inch away

from the zippers teeth when sewing

zippers always try to sew on the same

side of the presser foot when doing the

opposite side after the zipper is sewn

in place we'll take the side pocket

that's folded directly in half and we

will place it in the sewing machine and

sew along that folded edge this dish

will be about 5/16 inch away from the

folded edge here we're using the deluxe

five and a half inch magnetic guide to

help guide our project so it keeps our

stitch exactly in the right spot by

lining up the fabric along the edge of

the magnetic guide we did some reversing

at the beginning and we'll do some

reversing here at the end now we can set

these two side pockets the internal part

and the external part aside and we'll

move on to the next step one of the

duffel bag ends will contain a pocket in

this chapter we're going to fashion that

pocket we are now working with

one end pocket pattern along one of the

edges that's nine and a quarter-inch

apply double-sided tape here a double

hem will be created at first we need to

create a half inch hem we peel off the

transfer paper revealing the glue and

then fold the material down about a half

inch

now that our single hem is basted down

we'll apply double sided tape directly

on top of it then we'll create our

double hem so we'll fold it back again a

half inch using a heavy object on top of

double sided tape helps to adhere the

double-sided tape well and make it stick

to the fabric we use the sailrite canvas

patterning ruler for that now we can

take this pocket over to the sewing

machine and we will sew a straight

stitch about 5/16 inch away from the

folded edge of that double hem do some

reversing at the beginning again we're

using the deluxe five and a half inch

magnetic guide to guide the edge of the

pocket so the stitch is consistent and

at the end do some reversing there as

well now on the underside where the hem

was created we will place double-sided

tape on the sides here we will create a

half inch him

fold the material back approximately 1/2

inch and we'll do the same for the

opposite side the bottom edge will be

left raw this will not be a double hem

only a single hem along the bottom edge

we will measure and find the center

location you could also just fold the

assembly in half and crease it along the

bottom edge we marked both inside and

outside surfaces with a mark

now double-sided tape is placed on the

hem that we just created the half inch

hem on the sides this will be used to

baste this pocket to the end panel in

the next step we are now working with

only one of the 13 by 13 inch end panels

find the center location on one side of

this 13 by 13 inch panel so that would

be six and a half inches and Mark it we

will take the end pocket that we just

created in the last chapter and place

its Center location directly on top of

the center location of the end panel we

will baste it in that location peel off

the transfer paper that we applied to

the back side of the pocket and baste it

over those Center marks directly even

with the bottom edge of the 13 by 13

inch panel

now we can take this end panel and the

end pocket over to the sewing machine

and sew the pocket in place we will

start at the top edge though it doesn't

matter in do some reversing there whoa

hold on

builded not so all the way to the edge

of the pocket at the top he should have

done that he will sew all the way to the

bottom edge and he'll do some reversing

there as well

he started sewing directly on top of

that stitch that secured the double hem

along the top edge of the pocket

he should have soin past that stitch and

to the edge that was him all the way to

the folded edge up next we'll be

attaching the zippered side pocket to

the main body panel next we're working

on the main body and we'll be sewing the

zippered pocket on to it

fold it in half along the longest side

so it's now 24 and three-quarter inches

by 21 we marked the two outer edges on

the fold and also the center location on

the fold with the chalk pencil open up

the main body panel and Mark the

opposite side in the same manner you can

use the crease in the middle to find the

center location then measuring from the

center mark that we just made at the

center location measure up and Mark the

fabric at seven and a half inches the

bill measures again along that crease

about five to eight inches from the mark

in the center and places one more mark

at seven and a half inches then he uses

a clear acrylic ruler and places it on

the 21 inch mark to find the center the

center is ten and a half inches from the

edge then we're gonna take the zippered

pocket this is the side pocket and we're

gonna find the center of it to long on

the bottom edge it should be five and

seven eighths that's when measured from

the edge we've placed the mark on the

outside surface of this pocket in other

words the hems of the pocket are facing

down this pocket will be placed on our

seven and a half inch mark and in the

centered location

main body panel why not strike a line at

that location that is a little bit

smaller in width than the actual pocket

that way it's easy to line up the pocket

accurately we're gonna place

double-sided tape on the pocket now this

is the strange thing the double-sided

tape is going on the outside surface of

the pocket that's because it'll be

folded under in a future step so this is

accurate the double-sided tape is placed

on the outside now bill folds a half

inch him to the underside of the fabric

before removing the double-sided tape

bill takes the pocket and places on on

top of the main body panel at the center

location he then takes a chalk pencil

and marks the outer edge of the bottom

edge of the pocket on both sides the

half-inch him at the bottom has a crease

mark he will place the crease mark on

that seven and a half inch line that he

struck on the main body panel then he'll

peel off the transfer paper and then

he'll base that pocket at that location

on the main body panel once it is soand

down then it'll be turned so the outside

surface is facing up like this on the

opposite end of the main body panel

measure down from that edge 9 inches and

strike a line at two different locations

so that the pocket can be folded up to

that point when you fold the pocket up

to that point you'll notice there's some

fullness at the bottom of the pocket

that is expected and desired we'll

strike a line there so that we can

eventually base the pocket at that

location before we do anything else

let's take this over to the sewing

machine and sew that bottom edge so

we're sewing about an eighth inch away

from the raw edge of the bottom of this

zippered pocket or the side pocket we do

some reversing at the beginning and we

will sew all the way down the link till

we reach the other side and we'll do

some reversing at the other end this

secures that bottom edge only remember

that this zipper pocket has a dual

pocket so we're gonna find that half

pocket and place basting tape on one

side at the bottom edge

now we'll baste it to the bottom edge of

that zippered pocket going in the

opposite direction we place the bottom

edge of that 1/2 pocket or inner pocket

so that it is directly on top of the

score line or the 1/2 inch hem and on

top of that stitch that secured this

outer pocket in place inside of the

zippered pocket there'll be a clip that

you can clip keys or other things to

we're gonna cut the webbing that's

included in the kit that's 2 inches wide

to 7 inches in length we use the

sailrite edge hotknife to help prevent

the webbing from unraveling if you don't

have that you can use a wood burning

tool or a soldering gun now feed the

snap hook that's included in the kit

onto the end of the webbing we'll fold

the webbing over the snap hook but we

will leave one inch of exposed webbing

beyond the folded portion

in doing this that'll make it easier to

sew that one layer of webbing to the

pocket rather than two layers of webbing

now we'll take it over to the sewing

machine and sew one row of a straight

stitch reversing several times this

stitch is about 1/8 inch away from the

cut edge of that webbing that's about an

inch away from the opposite cut edge

it's taking it to the side pocket or the

zippered pocket we will open up the 1/2

inch hem at the top of the pocket and

push the end of the webbing into that

1/2 inch hem area then refold the half

inch him over top of it this webbing

should be positioned about 2 to 3 inches

from the end of the pocket doesn't

really matter which end it's positioned

then we'll place basting tape directly

over top of the half inch hem we are not

going to baste it to the main body panel

yet first we're gonna take it to the

sewing machine and sew that bottom edge

we're just showing what it will look

like let's unfold it and take it to the

sewing machine and sew to the bottom

edge so again we're sewing the bottom

edge the pocket is folded so the outside

surface is facing up and we do some

reversing at the end of our pocket and

we will sew all the way to the other end

and do some reversing there as well now

we're catching the outer pocket and that

inner pocket as we sew this straight

stitch about 1/8 inch from the folded

edge and build did not do a lot of

reversing there though I would do a

little bit more webbing will encase it

so you don't have to worry about it much

now we peel the transfer paper off of

that him and you can barely see our

chalk line you probably see yours a

little bit better

ours is rubbed off and we will baste it

in place right along that chalk line

that we drew I believe it was 9 inches

from the edge the opposite edge or the

top edge where the zipper is basted the

pocket is not meant to be perfectly flat

it should bulge out a little bit

this is intended so that when you put

big objects in there they will

he'll fit now we will sew along that top

edge reversing at the beginning and

reversing at the end just like we did at

the bottom edge don't worry about sewing

the sides of the pocket webbing we'll

cover those and when we saw the webbing

in it'll secure that included in the

duffel bag it is what's called foam luff

tape we need to cut it to 20 inches by

12 inches it already comes 12 inches so

we just need to cut along one edge to

make it 12 by 20

we used a rotary cutter but scissors can

be used to cut the foam as well this

foam will be placed at the bottom of the

bag between two layers of fabric and

then pleats will be sewn through it to

give a great support we're now working

with the bottom panel it's 21 inches by

13 inches on one side of the fabric we

will strike a line that's a half inch

from all edges of the fabric here we're

using the clear acrylic ruler but you

can use a tape measure to do this as

well and a straight edge this 1/2 inch

line will indicate where that foam will

be sewn to the bottom panel on the

opposite side that doesn't have the

marks a half inch around the perimeter

mark the center location on the 13-inch

sides that's six and a half inches do

that on both of the 13-inch sides then

flip the panel back over to your half

inch lines that were struck along all

sides and place double-sided tape on the

inside of the lines that you struck on

the fabric this double-sided tape will

help to hold the foam in place as we

take it to the sewing machine and sew it

we're going to place three rows of the

double-sided tape two on the sides and

one about in the center location we'll

peel off the transfer paper on one side

one of the 13 inch sides about a third

of the way then we'll start to position

the foam on the side that still has the

transfer paper in place so that we can

position it accurate

once it's positioned accurately in other

words on top of the lines that we struck

a half inch away from the raw edges of

the fabric we can peel away the transfer

paper revealing the double sided tape

and base the foam firmly in place on our

bottom panel once it's basted in place

we will then take double-sided tape and

place it along the edges the long edges

of the foam this will be used so that we

can fold the half-inch edge back over

top of the foam but that's only on the

two long edges not on the 13-inch sides

will peel off the transfer paper

revealing the glue and then fold the

fabric the half-inch portion of the

fabric back on top of the foam and stick

it in place do this on both long edges

and now we'll take it to the sewing

machine and sew the 21 and a half inch

sides this is the half inch hem that's

full to go over the foam and replacing a

stitch just in that fabric edge to

secure it all the way to the ends and

doing a little bit of reversing we'll do

that on both of the 21 inch sides

now on the bottom side of the main body

panel this is the side without the

pocket sewing on we will place

double-sided tape at the center location

you'll notice that the bottom panel is

directly above the main body panel we

want to place double-sided tape well

within that area where it will be stuck

to the bottom of the main body panel so

he's just using it as a reference to

determine where the legs of double-sided

tape will be placed approximately close

to the edge of that bottom panel and he

will stick the bottom panel on the

bottom of the main body panel so that

the center lines are directly on top of

each other and feel off the transfer

paper and baste it in place now the foam

is encased with fabric on both sides at

the center location on the bottom of the

bag strike a line this will be used as a

guide for sewing so be sure you use a

pencil or marking utensil that marks can

easily be removed like this chalk pencil

the bottom of the bag should now measure

12 inches so we will strike two more

lines three inches from the center line

on both sides we'll take the main body

panel with the bottom panel basted to it

to the sewing machine and we will sew

directly on top of those lines that we

struck down with the chalk we're gonna

start at the center line just so that

we're assured that the panel stays right

where we want it we're gonna do some

reversing at the beginning and now we

are sewing directly on top of that chalk

line with a straight stitch about six

millimeters in length we are sewing

through the foam the bottom fabric and

the main body panel on the underside we

want to do that on top of all of the

three chalk marks and also the stitch on

the sides that secured our half-inch

into the foam

so five straight stitches through the

foam to help reinforce the bottom of the

bag and it also stiffens it as well up

next the webbing that wraps around the

main body panel now flip the main body

panel down so the outside surface or

under side is facing up now

measure over 18 inches bill initially

starts on 18 inches then moves it to 19

inches and marks it at 1 inch and then

Mark along the edge of the fabric 18

inches on one side and 18 inches on the

other not 19 then do the same with the

opposite side now on the bottom side of

the bag measure in 4 inches on the long

edges and strike a few marks several

inches apart about 6 to 8 inches apart

along both long edges of the bag on the

bottom side 4 inches from the edge

these 4-inch marks will be the location

where webbing will be sewn into the bag

next we'll find the 2 inch polypropylene

webbing that's included in the kit and

measure it to 36 inches and cut it with

a hot knife if you don't have a

professional hot life like the sailrite

edge hotknife you can use a wood burning

tool or a soldering gun or you can use

scissors and use a lighter just be

careful not to burn it we need 2 strips

that are 36 inches in length before we

secure the webbing to the bag we need to

install the slider the webbing will be

placed over top of the edge of the bag

we're gonna cut the end of the zipper

off so they're even and now we're gonna

separate the zippers teeth and install

the slider to install the slider push

the fat end of the slider on to the

zippers teeth and hold the two edges of

the zipper and pull on the slider a

second helper can be useful and that

they can pull on the slider as you hold

the two ends of the zipper then just

leave the slider in the middle position

as bill did there place double sided

tape along the two long edges of the

webbing and we will prepare to baste it

in place be sure to place the double

sided tape on both of the 36 inch runs

of webbing we didn't show it but we

measured up two and a quarter inches

from the top edge of the pocket and

marked the fabric we will start the

webbing end at that location the outer

edge of the webbing should be placed on

the four inch marks that we struck on

the material remember that the pocket

has some excess material it's not laying

flat we want that excess material to be

at the bottom of the pocket as seen here

so there'll be a slight wrinkle there

then on the opposite side we have also

placed a mark two and a quarter inches

from the top edge of the pocket and we

will baste the opposite 36 inch leg of

webbing there

Bill's pushing the excess fabric to the

bottom of the pocket as he base the

webbing in place on top of it

duffle bag kits come with the sarai tag

logo the bags look excellent with these

logos in place so we highly recommend

you put them in it also tells the world

that you did it yourself

we put the tags about five inches down

from the ends of the webbing on both

sides of the bag at this in there is no

pocket but the tag should go there as

well

we'll now take this over to the sewing

machine and sew a straight stitch along

the long edges of the webbing this

stitch is placed about 1/8 inch away

from the outer edge at the webbing do

some reversing at the beginning and also

at the end of your run when we get to

this airight tag

this stitch secures that tag in place

here we are at the opposite end and we

will do some reversing there as well

when we sew the inner leg of the webbing

this will secure the pocket in place and

we will sew right through the zipper so

go slowly when it's time to sew through

the zipper because sometimes the needle

can deflect off the teeth bill didn't

sew very slowly through the teeth the

accident didn't Lee pushed on the

treadle

and the machine took off but he did so

through the teeth without breaking the

needle and that's good here at the

bottom of the bag that excess fabric is

sewn in as a wrinkle that is expected

and we'll follow that exact same

procedure for the opposite side securing

the webbing in the pocket and the tag

let's move on you're probably saying hey

wait a minute there's no handles well

that's next

ERI duffel bag kits come with a d-ring

that's so bold this is a nylon d-ring we

will sew one at the top of the webbing

at all four ends we will apply basting

tape to the flange of the syllable

d-ring and secure it in place at the top

of the webbing as seen here sewing one

row of straight stitches reversing once

is all this necessary to secure each one

of the Rings at the top of the webbing

later on we'll be sewing another length

of webbing at this d-ring location when

we sew that this will help to secure the

Sobel d-ring even more for the handles

themself we need to cut two lengths of

two inch webbing to 27 inches in length

we'll use the sailrite edge hotknife

again to cut the webbing here we are

cutting the second leg of that 27 inch

length webbing on both ends of the

webbing bill likes to place slight

dog-eared notches this is an optional

step on both ends of the webbing place

double-sided tape and we will fold it

back to create a three-quarter inch him

this should be done on both legs of

webbing so the ends are folded back to

three-quarter inches we will not show

doing this on all of the ends ensure

that the hem is folded to the same side

of the webbing once the hem is made

placed double-sided tape on top of that

3/4 inch hem do this for all four of the

ends cutting off the corner of the

webbing means that the webbing will not

stick out when the hem is created now

we'll take one of those legs and take

the main body panel with its assembly so

into it over to the sewing machine peel

off the transfer paper and baste that

hemmed edge directly on top of the

syllable d-rings

the hemmed fold is right along the

bottom edge of the d-ring then we will

sew a straight stitch from edge to edge

securing the webbing in place and also

risa curing that D ring that's already

been sewn in place with one stitch we've

sewn in forward now so in Reverse all

the way to the other end then we will

place a second row of straight stitches

right on top of the end of the webbing

on the bottom side so that you really

can't tell there's a transition between

one length of webbing in the second if

the webbing were folded back and if you

look on the underside so try to secure

the last row of stitches right at the

top edge of the webbing that lays on the

bottom side do this for all four

locations being sure that the handle is

laying flat no extra twists in it there

should be no twists at all here's how it

should lay when you're done we will not

show sewing on the other side it's done

in the same manner in this chapter we

sew on the zipper to the top of the bag

next we'll be working on the zipper for

the main opening of the bag lay the

zipper on the top edge of the bag and

ensure that you have at least two inches

going over the edge of the bag if it's

long cut the excess off so there's two

inches on both sides apply basting tape

to the flange of the zipper

make sure the basting tape is as far

away from the teeth as possible we like

to use the Sarah I canvas patterning

ruler to secure the basing tape well to

the zippers flange if you don't have

that use a heavy object separate the two

halves of the zipper by pulling them

apart at the end with the main body

panel and all of its assembly is laying

up other words the handles are on the

top side baste the zipper as shown here

in the video being sure that the two

extra inches hangs over the edges baste

the flange so that it's even with the

top edge

of the panel this zipper is fairly short

if it were long you want to be sure to

baste without pulling on the zipper

because a zipper can stretch fairly

easily just by applying pressure but

since this zipper is very short

stretching it is not much of a problem

on the backside where the excess

double-sided tape is we suggest peeling

it off all the way up to the fabric

assembly and then pulling it off now

we'll take it over to the sewing machine

and sew a straight stitch securing the

zipper to the top portion of the bag

this stitch is 1/8 inch away from the

edge of the zippers flange so the needle

isn't in the center position and the

left walking foot is up against the

zippers teeth as we sew repeat that same

procedure for the opposite end of the

bag where the bag was up together

the bag has been clips of the outside

surface is facing the tabletop we will

place double-sided tape along the top

edge where we secured the zipper and we

do that on both ends of the bag and now

we will fold the zipper back and baste

it in place at this location we will not

create a cover for the teeth as we do on

typically outdoor applications but

instead we will fold it right up against

that first stitch that we created in

other words we're folding on the stitch

this place is the fold away from the

zippers teeth which actually makes the

bag look great we don't have to worry

about UV exposure so the fold does not

have to cover the zippers teeth then we

take it to the sewing machine and we sew

a straight stitch securing that fold in

place the right portion of our walking

foot is up against the teeth the needle

is in the center position so this place

is this stitch about 3/8 inch away from

the zippers teeth

we'll follow that exact same procedure

for the opposite end we will not show

that remember this hint when sewing the

opposite side of the zipper always try

to sew it on the same side of the

presser foot as you sewed the first the

next we'll work on the duffel bag ends

we are now working with the end panel

this one has a pocket sewing on to it on

to the side that has the pocket sewn on

to it place double-sided tape on all

four edges very close to the raw edge of

the fabric we struck half inch lines

along this outer edge that is not

necessary however on the underside of

this in other words we will flip it so

the pocket is facing the tabletop we do

recommend placing marks a half inch from

all four sides so the pocket is now

facing the tabletop and bill is

measuring four half-inch locations of a

line that he will now strike down all

four sides of this end panel these lines

will be used to help you sew the bag

ends in place onto the main body panel

now let's go to the main body panel flip

it so that the outside surface is facing

up the webbing is facing up the bottom

of the bag has the foam in it we want to

place a chalk mark directly along the

bottom of the bag where the foam rests

so we placed marks there we already have

a mark placed at 18 inches from the

center location we just want to

highlight that location with our chalk

pencil one of our end panels has a

pocket the other does not it doesn't

matter which side of the bag and that

end panel with the pocket goes it's up

to you we're doing the same thing on the

other side of the main body panel

marking where the foam is on the

underside with our chalk pencil the

double-sided tape at the bottom edge of

the end panel has been exposed and we

flipped the end panel so outside

surfaces are facing each other and it is

centered at the bottom edge of the bag

the marks that we made on the main body

panel alongside of the foam will be

approximately a half inch inside the

edges of the end panel then we start

sewing on top of our chalk lines doing

some reversing at the beginning all the

way down the bottom edge till we reach

the second chalk line that's a half inch

away from the edge of the end panel stop

sewing right when you reach that chalk

line that goes horizontal of our

position and do some reversing there now

we will take this assembly out from

underneath the sewing machine and we

will baste one of the sides of the end

panel to the main body panel bill starts

at the mark that he made 18 inches from

the center location on the main body

panel and lines it up with a chalk line

that's a half inch from the edge and

then the bastes to the corner I like to

start at the corner and then baste up

that's a preference when bill reaches

the corner there will be excess fabric

there mainly because the fabric has to

make a 90 degree turn at that corner you

can cut a slit not going deeper than a

quarter-inch because we don't want to

see this led after we're done sewing in

the main body panel and in the end panel

this will help to relieve the fabric at

that 90 degree turn so it sits better as

you sew at the corner if by chance

you're patterning was a little bit off

and there's too much fabric at the

corner don't worry about it unless it's

excessive it won't really show up in the

end results now bill will start to sew

from the corner doing some reversing and

he will sew all the way to that mark or

the next line that described on the end

panel outside surfaces again are facing

each other you don't necessarily have to

start sewing from the corner because we

used basting tape everything is pretty

much held in place so you can start from

the corner or you can start from the top

and go to the corner when we reach the

chalk line that's a half inch from the

edge do some reversing there do not go

past it so directly to it and stop now

based the opposite side in the same

manner we will not show all of this

since the process has done in exactly

the same way here's what the corner

looks like now we'll take it to the

sewing machine and sew it this time bill

starts at the top edge of that side

panel buries his needle at the junction

of the half-inch mark and sews to the

corner the sailrite ultrafeed sewing

machines are the world's best portable

walking foot sewing machines this

ultrafeed is set up in the industrial

sewing table in the workhorse servomotor

package extreme slow speed control and

power after sewing this end panel in

place if we look on the inside of the

bag which is wrong side out here's what

it should look like now we'll take the

second end panel which is 13 inches by

13 inches apply double-sided tape to all

four sides of that square strike lines

on the opposite side that are 1/2 inch

away from the edge and then baste it in

place just like we did before with the

outside lines that are 1/2 inch from the

edges on the outside surface in other

words outside surfaces are facing each

other and the lines that we struck down

are the inside of the bag so the bag is

wrong side out follow that same

procedure remember that making a relief

not no deeper than a quarter inch at the

corners can help the fabric to relieve

itself as the fabric takes a 90-degree

turn since this process is done in

exactly the same way

we are going to move on the zippered

opening of our bag needs to have a

reinforced zipper stop at both ends we

also need a d-ring to attach an

adjustable webbing strap we're going to

show you how to do that next finding our

2 inch webbing we will cut two strips to

eight inches in length we will show

constructing one

we need two of these take your syllable

d-ring and attach double-sided tape on

both sides of the flange then on the

eight inch length of webbing apply

double-sided tape on both long edges

going only halfway down the length of

that webbing so basically double sided

tape on four inches of the eight inch

leg run the end of the webbing through

the opening on the snap hook swivel and

rotate remove the transfer paper of the

two legs of the double sided tape and

also remove the transfer paper from both

sides of the syllable d-ring now attach

the syllable d-ring on the end of the

webbing as shown when the duffel bag is

done the snap hook will be on the inside

of the duffel bag and you can attach

keys or other things to it

fold the webbing in half so the d-ring

is on the end and the snap hooks swivel

and rotate is on the opposite end press

down firmly to secure everything so it's

basted firmly in place now take it to

the sewing machine and sew the d-ring in

place and the ends of the webbing in

place with a straight stitch reversing

once and then going forward again

so three rows of a straight stitch all

on top of each other

and bill will bury his needle at the

corner and lift the foot rotate the

assembly and sew down the long leg of

the webbing until he reaches the snap

hook upon reaching the bottom bar of the

snap hook he will bury his needle lift

the presser foot rotate the assembly

lower the presser foot and then he'll

sew right directly underneath the bar

and he will also reverse once and go

forward again to the opposite corner

then he will sew to the edge bury his

needle lift the presser foot rotate the

assembly and sew down the opposite leg

the snap-hook may come in contact with

the backs portion of the walking foot

try to keep it out of the way as you sew

the first stitch when he reaches the

portion where he did the preliminary

stitches he will do some reversing there

to lock the stitch in place we will only

show making one of these though you do

need to make to measure from the end of

the webbing with the d-ring down one and

a half inches and used your chalk pencil

to place a mark on that place a length

of double sided tape directly on top of

that mark so the mark is on top on the

top edge of the double-sided tape as

bill is facing the d-ring the bag has

been turned right side out and he

inspects the zipper on the side pocket

to see which way the slider polar is

running he wants to install the polar on

the main opening of the bag in the same

direction follow the same procedure for

installing the slider do not forget this

step if you forget the slider you have

to take the bag apart once it started it

should zip on nicely the bag needs to be

turned wrong side out

before we base the top portion of the

side to the top portion of the bag we

will cut a slit a quarter-inch into the

main body at that corner this helps to

relieve the fabric as it takes a

90-degree turn here we're doing it to

the second corner this slider is already

installed on the zipper don't forget

that step now we'll take that webbing

assembly and insert the d-ring inside

the opening of the bag before we insert

that we need to remove the transfer

paper from the double-sided tape on the

end panel once that's removed we'll

reinsert it again remove the transfer

paper from the basting tape on the

webbing then insert the end with the

d-ring inside the opening of the bag the

webbing should be centered directly on

top of the middle of the zipper the mark

that we made one and a half inches from

the end of the webbing is flush with the

end of the bag and now we take the end

panel and carefully lay it on top so raw

edges are flush and base that in place

if there is any excess fabric it should

be worked out or worked away from the

zipper so the excess fabric lays

directly at the corner it will not cause

the bag to look bad if there's excess

fabric so just work it out towards the

corner if any

when you're happy with the way it looks

we'll take it to the sewing machine and

we'll sew the duffel bag end shut and

we'll also be securing that webbing in

place as we sew through it we will also

be sewing through the zipper so be

careful when you get to that transition

you're sewing through quite a few layers

of assembly including the webbing and

the zipper and the fabric sew sew very

slowly here now the ultrafeed sewing

machine can easily sew in Reverse over

this assembly so yeni is going to sew

slowly over top of the location of the

webbing in the zipper so there are three

rows of stitches there if you do not

have the world's best portable walking

foot sewing machine you may want to

actually lift your presser foot and sew

in forward over the zipper portion in

the webbing portion several times

instead of sewing in Reverse when you

reach any corner be sure that you're not

sewing through excess fabric on the

underside sometimes there's a wrinkle on

the underside so you want to kind of

lift the assembly and look that's what

bill did before he reached the corner

then be sure to do some reversing to

lock that stitch in place we will repeat

that same procedure for the opposite end

of the zipper and for the end panel we

will not show all that since it's done

exactly in the same way

here we are completing that other side

that we did not show all the way now we

will unzip our bag and turn it

right-side out the sailrite double bag

kit is now complete one last thing is

the shoulder strap that's coming up next

to make the shoulder strap find the 2

inch webbing this left over and cut it

to a length of 48 inches onto the length

of that webbing feed the tri bar

adjuster webbing slider to inch proper

feeding of the tri-bar means that the

fold of the webbing is on the ridged

portion of the center bar place a run of

double-sided tape on the end of the

webbing so when it's folded back it

could be adhered to itself cutting away

the corner of the webbing creating dog

ears is optional we'll peel off the

transfer paper revealing the glue of the

double sided tape and we'll fold it back

upon itself we will fold it so the end

of the webbing and the end of the tri

bar adjuster webbing slider equals about

4 inches after basting it to that

location we'll take it back over to the

sewing machine and sew a straight stitch

with a stitch directly under the Tri bar

adjuster reversing a few times to lock

the stitch in place and to secure that

webbing well we will sew three separate

rows of a straight stitch reversing

several times for each row to secure the

end of the webbing at that location on

the opposite end of the webbing run the

snap hook swivel and rotate to inch onto

it then feed that into the webbing

through the Tri bar adjuster webbing

slider as shown the end result is an

adjustable webbing strap

moving to the opposite end we will feed

yet another snap hook swivel and rotate

2 inch onto it the corners of the

webbing on this end have also been cut

off slightly that's optional will apply

double-sided tape to that end and we

will fold it back over the snap hook

swivel and rotate to approximately 3

inches when measuring the fold of the

webbing to the end of the webbing now it

too will be taken to the sewing machine

and 2 to 3 rows of a straight stitch

reversing several times for each row

we'll be sewing on to the end of the

webbing securing the snap hook swivel

and rotate in place and now the shoulder

strap can be snapped on to the d-rings

on our duffel bag and now you have an

adjustable shoulder strap so you can

carry the bag via the strap or the

handles it's your choice

when looking inside the duffel bag you

can choose to cut off the excess zipper

if you'd like just don't cut off the

webbing with the swivel hooks on it the

snap hooks swivel and rotate rotates

beautifully so your strap actually moves

with you don't go away

the materials list and the tools list

that we used in this videos coming up

next all of the materials are included

in the sailrite duffel bag kit the only

items that are not included in the

sailrite duffel bag kit are the tools we

will place a star next to the tools that

we highly recommend obviously a sewing

machine scissors straightedge a tape

measure is required if you don't have a

sewing machine you can purchase the

sailrite ultrafeed at sailrite

to order the duffel bag kit click the

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on a link here of other videos that may

be of interest to you i'm eric grant and

from all of us here at sailrite thank

for watching