DIY Plywood and Reclaimed Pallet Wood TV Stand / Media Console - How to Make It

hello everyone i'm brad from macon and

today i'll be building this TV stand

using plywood and free pallet wood let

me show you how you can make it

I began by cutting my sheet of plywood

into more manageable pieces before

bringing it inside I'm using one full

sheet of 3/4 inch sanded pine pie would

this type of plywood is super easy to

work with it comes in pretty straight

pieces and is very affordable I will be

painting this plywood so I don't need

any of the fancy stuff I continue to

make the rest of my cuts on the table

saw but before I could assemble the TV

stand together I needed to cut out the

tracks for the sliding door to do this I

use my router with a straight trim bit I

set my appropriate depth for the bottom

track I then clamped down a guide fence

using a piece of scrap wood which

allowed me to get a nice straight cut

for my router

I repeated the same process for the top

track except this time I made the depth

a little deeper because this will allow

me to catch the cabinet door on and off

when I need to this edge will be exposed

on the outside and I didn't want to

start my cut right on the edge so I

drilled an oversize pilot hole to begin

my router cut I drove the hole a little

larger than my router bit so I could

start my router clearly before making my

kind after my cracks were cut I selected

a decent sized pallet board I cut out

the rough length and then squared up the

board using my jointer and planer I made

sure the board fit in my track before

running it through my table saw to get

the desired height I then temporarily

clamped the top part of my TV stand

together so I could do a quick test fit

once it was good it was time to start

assembling the TV stand

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I used a combination of pocket screws

and wood screws this plywood will be

painted and I can cover over any holes

with wood filler I also made sure to put

any pocket holes I use in a place where

it won't be seen I used the rest of the

3/4 inch plywood to make my drawers I

cut the left and right side first for

the back and front side of the drawer I

needed to take into consideration the

thickness of the side pieces of plywood

and in the drawer slides which is

exactly 1/2 inch per side I measured the

total length of the cabinet sides where

the drawers will be and then subtracted

1 inch I then took my left and right

drawer sides and use those in my

measurements as I marked my front panel

this allowed me to measure my front side

piece which showed me how short I needed

to cut it down to I cut a scrap piece of

wood and tested it to make sure

everything fit and as it should

you could always cut your piece a little

longer and shave off one edge until you

get your perfect fit once all the sides

were cut I ran them through my table saw

to make my groove that will allow a

quarter inch thick plywood panel to

slide into I've cut my pieces at the

same time and then slid my fence over a

little until it could fit a quarter inch

sheet of plywood in it using a test

piece really makes this part much easier

I'm using pocket screws to assemble this

drawer because they're strong and quick

to use I glued the front side of my

drawer together and then screwed it in

making sure to have the pocket holes

facing the outside I could then slide my

panel in and attach the back side of the

drawer I don't like gluing the back side

of the drawer in case I need to ever

replace the bottle panel for the drawer

front cabinet door and artificial side

support I'm using more pallet wood I

began by cutting my boards to rough

length using my miter saw and table saw

for those of you who are not familiar

with working with pallet wood there are

some pallets that have been heat treated

or chemically treated you will

definitely want to do your research on

the type of pallet wood you're using and

I would avoid using chemically treated

pallet

I used my table-saw jig to get one

straight edge on the pallet board which

then allowed me to run the board

through my table saw like normal I was

eyeing everything into rough size I

lightly sanded the board using a grit

sandpaper before running them through my

planer to get them all the same

thickness working with pallet wood can

be a little unpredictable I ran into a

small problem when I found a board with

a massive crack in it you could cut and

plane a new piece of pallet wood or you

can completely rip it apart and glue it

back up with clamps and then you're good

to go I'm just dealing with power wood

here so it doesn't need to be perfect

any imperfection you make just adds to

the character once everything was planed

down I could start to glue up my panels

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when glowing up panels like these it's

important to alternate your clamps from

top to bottom to reduce bowing and to

taking a step further I tape the bottom

of two by fours using packaging tape and

clamp them across my panels as well the

next day I could start trimming my

panels down to size I started on the

artificial side support where I will be

wrapping it around the 3/4 inch plywood

panel

I cut 45-degree angles using my table

saw to give the corners a nice clean

look once I had all my pieces cut I did

a quick test fit to make sure everything

fit

I moved on to squaring up my drawer

fronts and cabinet door using my table

saw and miter saw to open the drawers I

cut out a knot on the top using the same

template from my previous project for

the feet of the TV stand I made a

template out of plywood and then traced

eight pieces out on a pallet board I cut

those pieces out using a jig saw I added

an identical piece of plywood between

the pallet wood pieces and glued them

together after the glue had a chance to

dry I flushed up the edges using a

sander and I really liked how this

turned out I used a rabbeting bit that

has a bearing at the end of it to cut a

slot out in the back to allow a quarter

inch sheet of backer board to sit in it

next I moved on to filling my holes

cracks and any other imperfections using

wood filler I don't like how the end

grain soaks up paint so I rubbed in wood

filler to help fill in some of the voids

found in plywood you could also use edge

banding here but I found this is to be a

cheaper option and I just made sure that

sand the edges real well i sanded

everything down using 80 120 and 220

grit sandpaper also if your joints

aren't perfectly lined up like mine is

then just flush it up using your sander

next it was on to painting I chose white

because I liked the contrast with the

natural reclaimed wood after the paint

had dried I could attach my pallet wood

panels with wood glue

I use painters tape on the corners to

help hold the panel in place long enough

until I was able to clamp everything

together after I had it mostly clamped I

realized it would be much better if I

use it for across my panel so that's

what I did after the glue dried I

touched up the cord with my sander and

sanded down any leftover glue residue

I used water-based poly acrylic over all

the pallet wood panels as well as the

white paint I chose this finish because

it's very true to color and it doesn't

yellow the would like oil-based finishes

do with the finished dry I could finally

start putting the rest of this TV stand

together and I started with the drawers

to attach the drawer fronts I use

spacers to hold my panel in place long

enough to clamp it down which allowed me

to remove the drawer with the panel

attached I used one inch LAN Craig

screws because they already only one as

long screws I had in my shop I needed a

way to attach the feet to the bottom of

the TV stand so I used this aluminum

flat bar that I had lying around in my

shop I cut it down into four strips and

drilled three pilot holes on one side

and two on the other I then counter sunk

the holes aluminum is very soft metal

and I had no problem using my regular

wood bits for this I screwed the flat

bars to the top of my feet and then

attached him to the bottom of my PVC

I also attached a fifth leg and hid it

in the back middle to help prevent the

plywood from sagging over time I then

moved to on to attaching the cabinet

door my daughter wasn't quite thick

enough for my hinges so I glued a small

strip of quarter-inch plywood to the

back when attaching the door to the TV

stand I use spacers and a block of wood

to help hold and locate where I needed

the hinges to be screwed on in the

inside for the door style I used this

pushing magnet stop which allows me to

open and close the door

having to use a handle and keep it clean

straight look for the finishing touches

I added the back panel using Brad nails

I also added finishing wax to the top

and bottom of the sliding door to help

it glide back and forth I intentionally

made my drawer short so I had enough

space in the back for a power trip and

this TV stand is officially done

thank you all for sticking around and

watching my video if you liked what you

saw hit the thumbs up button also if you

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I'll catch you on the next one bye

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you